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Author Topic: Front fender clearance at full travel  (Read 177 times)
Bounty Hunter
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VRCC#: 29448
« on: March 04, 2010, 06:18:43 PM »

I looking to install road lights between the front forks under the front fairing....Question is how much travel and total clearance at full compression of the shocks do I have before the  lights and front fender would meet....   I'm looking at 2 inch LEDS....should be bright if they'll fit...

Thanks

John S
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DragonRider
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« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2010, 12:13:33 AM »

John,

Go here for the info you were looking for:  http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/foglites.html

If you scroll down a little, there will be a little graphic showing how to determine the clearance.  There is quite a bit of info on wiring the lights up also.

I mounted a set of 50W 2" lights on the "Underwhere" bracket they sell.  I like that the lights are out of the way there, and they look good.  No problem with clearance.  My problem was that they really reflect off of the front fender.  I had mine for about 2 weeks, and I had to do something else. 

I posted this a while ago, look under the fourth post down on the Tech page.

Under "Fog Lights for a dark time?Huh"
I had a rough time trying to figure out where to put the fog lights on my Standard.  I have seen quite a few mounted on the engine guards.  I was not a big fan of this because you get alot of glare when you turn the handlebars and the fender/wheel get in the way of the lights.  I tried the "Underwhere" mount from Rattlebars (goes under the triple tree), and I had the same problem with the glare on top of the fender.  ( I have small halogen bullets.)  I ended up mounting them on the forks.  The trick is finding a clamp to fit the fork tubes.  The standard Kuryakyn clamps were not large enough to fit the tubes. 

This last summer I noticed Kuryakyn came out with a new set of clamps for the Victory bikes that fit the Valk tubes.  They are P/N KY-2275.  They are made for a light that has a threaded mount on the light housing, not a stud mount.  I was able to use them with a stud mount light by using a locknut in the clamp (there is a little recess for the cap screw that would go into the threaded light housing) with a second nut on the outside of the clamp to use a lock nut.  This worked good for me, and gave enough clearance on the lights where they did not whack the radiator when I made a hard turn.  Had them on all summer without any problems.


Dave.
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1998 Standard,Yellow & Cream
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